The Fat Duck
08 August 2007
10:15 PM
Categories: Eat Drink
Tags: Restaurant Reviews



It's not everyday that someone of my socioeconomic stature spends over £200 on a meal. And it's not everyday that one waits 3 years to finally sample the fruits of one of the most original restaurants the world has to offer. So after dining at Heston Blumenthal's internationally renowned The Fat Duck, I thought a few culinary notes were in order.

During my first few months in London, I caught a culinary show featuring the exploits of Heston Blumenthal, the youngest and fastest chef to be awarded his third Michelin star (that's like getting a 3-peat in the NBA). He talked about the relationship between food and science, psychology and taste, and liquorice and salmon. He also demonstrated a few of his ideas; he used a pressure chamber to make soufflé and experimented with headphones to increase the freshness of carrots. He was completely out of the box, yet surprisingly, made perfect sense. It was clear that I had to try his restaurant.

Three years later, after numerous reservation attempts and failed efforts to coordinate schedules amongst friends, I finally made it. I took the Eurostar from Paris and met up with my friends in London, and then journeyed to Bray, Berkshire - home of The Fat Duck.

In the end, we were six. That was the maximum number allowed for any single booking. We also had to specify whether we wanted the Tasting Menu or à la carte. It was an easy decision. It was to be the Tasting Menu as it contained all of the bizarre goodies that had made The Fat Duck the world's best restaurant back in 2005 (and currently second best this year). All except for Natasha added the wine tasting option. She gets red pretty fast.

Although the atmosphere was not at all stuffy, nerves were apparent early on in the night. We were embarrassingly caught out when asked if we would like an apéritif. It would be one hour before being served our first course so it seemed obligatory at the time. And although we all volunteered for the big bite out of our wallets, we didn't want the wound to dramatically haemorrhage. After some initial hesitation we chose one of the cheapest champagnes on the list - a non-vintage pink at £20 per glass.

After enjoying that rather smooth drink, three waiters approached our table. The show was about to begin. Here's what we had.

Tasting Menu

NITRO-GREEN TEA AND LIME MOUSSE (2001)
OYSTER AND PASSION FRUIT JELLY, LAVENDER POMMERY GRAIN MUSTARD ICE CREAM, RED CABBAGE GASPACHO QUAIL JELLY, CREAM OF LANGOUSTINE, PARFAIT OF FOIE GRAS OAK MOSS AND TRUFFLE TOAST
(Homage to Alain Chapel)

SNAIL PORRIDGE
Joselito ham

ROAST FOIE GRAS
Almond fluid gel, cherry, chamomile

"SOUND OF THE SEA"

SALMON POACHED WITH LIQUORICE

Artichokes, vanilla mayonnaise and "Manni" olive oil

BALLOTINE OF ANJOU PIGEON
Black pudding "to order", Pickling brine and spiced juices

HOT AND ICED TEA (2005)

MRS MARSHALL'S MARGARET CORNET

PINE SHERBET FOUNTAIN (PRE-HIT)

MANGO AND DOUGLAS FIR PUREE
Bavarois of lychee and mango, blackcurrant sorbet, Blackcurrant and green peppercorn jelly

PARSNIP CEREAL

NITRO-SCRAMBLED EGG AND BACON ICE CREAM
Pain perdu, tea jelly (2006)

So, was it worth it? Hell yeah!

The Tasting Menu may sound a little strange, possibly grotesque, but definitely original. Every course offered something that made you think "is he serious?". But that was the point. Originality is one of the main premises for this restaurant, and of course, a mandatory quality of any 3 Michelin star establishment. Blumenthal has taken seemingly opposing ingredients, and fused them with unconventional methods (eg. dry ice cooking) to create dishes which ultimately challenge one's formed perceptions of cuisine.

For me "Sound of the Sea" was a highlight. Far from being the best tasting meal I've ever had, it was however an experience like no other. With seashell earphones in place and a dish that strikingly resembled a beach, I quietly ate what I perceived to be sand and sea. It didn't work for everybody, but I was definitely present in the planned space that Blumenthal intended.

The psychology of the dining experience was also another strong point at The Fat Duck. What better way to create a great tasting an enjoyable meal than to plant the idea into one's head beforehand? From the verbal introduction of each course, to the presentation of an accompanying wine, right down to the synchronised serving of dishes, every aspect of the dining experience seemed to be well thought out. They even presented us with personal copies of the Tasting Menu after a few courses.

I would easily say that my experience at The Fat Duck was the most exciting, original and enjoyable culinary journey that I have ever taken. It was more like experiencing culinary theatre than dining at any restaurant, with each course being a unique act in a story of many flavours. In the end it was an amazing show from start to finish. I was left inebriated in every way.

Just an amazing experience. Definitely not the tastiest food I've ever had, but easily some of the most memorable. Highly recommended to anyone who is passionate about food. A must for those who are open to breaking the rules of culinary tradition.
6
Comments
1 /
12.09.07 
Dave

Sounds great, Dennis! Defiently much more extravagent than my recent culinary experience.
I went to Yoshii on Harrington st in Sydney for my girlfriends birthday. Only $AU200 each with wine, no michelins, but two SMH hats, but none-the-less, bloody nice.

Man.. I want that bacon and egg ice cream!

http://www.yoshii.com.au

2 /
12.09.07 
Tash

It was a crazy experience .. Towards the end we were getting tired and it was technically early (was about 1am by the time we were done) and the menu was turning toward breakfast ..

Bacon and egg ice cream .. Yum!!

3 /
18.04.08 
annick

wow..

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22.06.10 
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12.07.10 
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